Fishing at the end of the earth
For hard-fighting sea-trout that can reach 30lbs, the rivers of southern Patagonia are not to be missed
Vast, open landscapes, abundant bird life, amazing sunsets, first-class accommodation, food and wine, and, above all, feisty, hard-fighting sea-trout that average 10lbs in weight and can reach 30! This is what persuades increasing numbers of keen flyfishers to travel each year to the end of the earth to fish the famous rivers of southern Patagonia the Rio Grande and the Gallegos.
To make the most of any trip, it is important to be well equipped and well prepared, and to appreciate that this is different to sea-trouting in the UK for, although fishing continues into the twilight, there is no overnight fishing as on some British rivers. At most lodges, fishing will take place in two sessions, morning and evening, separated by lunch and a siesta. The latter becomes essential as the week goes on, as drinks and dinner served after late evening fishing, make for very late nights.
The lack of overhead tree cover means that during the day the fish will be found taking advantage of any in-river shelter, for example, tight up against cut banks, underwater ledges and marginal weed beds, or in deep channels often indicated by a current seam. Another factor is the notorious wind. It is true that this can be severe at times, but remember that it can be to your advantage, helping to oxygenate the water and create some colour, making the fish more active and willing to take your fly. The guide will generally take you to pools where the wind helps rather than hinders and on most evenings it dies away in time for the best taking period.

The wind does have an influence on tackle choice. A powerful, fast action 9 to 96" rod rated for 8 weight lines is suitable for much of the Rio Grande. On the lower beats, and particularly on the larger Rio Gallegos, many prefer a 13 to 14 double-handed rod rated 9 or even 10, for greater ease of use and better line control at distance. A good quality disc drag reel holding a minimum of 150 yards of backing is essential, and a large arbor will help to keep in touch with fish that turn and run upstream towards you. Take top quality leader material in the 10 to 20lb range, depending on water levels; it is also worth including a few tapered leaders in case you encounter low, clear water where presentation can be crucial.
An essential part of your fishing kit will be a range of lines to accommodate variation in water levels. Generally, floating lines are particularly useful in the evenings, when the fish are most active, but they may at times be used with long leaders during the day to cope with low, clear water. Higher water, or discolouration caused by the wind, will require you to get down to the fish. A standard sink tip and/or a Teeny-type line are essentials for the single-handed fisher. For the doublehanders, a good alternative is an interchangeable tips line such as the Rio Windcutter, which enables you to change depths quickly without carrying spare spools.
Fly choice is also largely dependent upon water conditions and you may need anything from weighted nymphs in low clear water through to large rubber-legged patterns, streamers and flashy tubes in high or coloured water. It is also worth having some large black/silver patterns for evening fishing as well as surface lures to provoke some of those heart-stopping takes. The one thing that all flies must have in common is a strong hook.
The summer climate in this area can be extremely variable and you need to be prepared for a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions. Layer your clothing using lightweight base layers and moisture-wicking fleeces enabling you to add or shed items during the course of the day. An absolute essential is a good quality, breathable, waterproof and windproof jacket. Wading is, on the whole very easy, over level shingle riverbed. Breathable waders are strongly recommended, as daytime temperatures can be high. Finally, dont forget to pack your sun block as well as good quality polarised eyewear, and youll be ready for the trip of a lifetime.