New Zealand Backcountry Fishing

New Zealand Backcountry Fishing - By David Williams

You know it’s going to be a good day when you hook a trout in the first pool.  This feisty rainbow, of about a pound, wasn’t that large, but it showed the fish were fighting fit and present in good numbers……my level of excitement began to rise.

Backcountry fishing in New Zealand is anywhere off the beaten track which is difficult to access, typically because of the distance of the fishing location from a good metalled road.  So arriving at your fishing spot can either require a long drive along gravel forest roads, tramping in along walking tracks or a mixture of both these methods.  A more convenient way to access the backcountry is by helicopter if you can afford it.  However, helicopter landing spots are not available in all locations and on some river sections helicopter access is  prohibited.

After that first fish, I moved up river to the next run which looked really promising because of a lovely boulder in centre stream.  Sure enough, on my second drift past this prime lie..............bang the indicator vanished.  The silver rainbow leapt high above the water and then it was off! twenty metres upstream and then thirty metres downstream into the next pool, with me running after it – this was certainly a wild fighting trout!  After a few more acrobatics I was rewarded with my first good fish of the day, a beautiful silver three and a half pound rainbow.

A lovely backcountry pool

The early start on that late February (Summer in New Zealand) day had been worth it as we were well up the river by mid-morning fishing in remote and beautiful clear water conditions.  A beautiful pool we found that morning was short and deep with a wall of rock protruding into the pool from the left hand side.  Peering around the rock, I cast just off the foam line and as far as possible upstream to maximise the length of run.  As my third cast drifted through the pool I had almost given up hope and then my nymph was violently taken at the end of the run.  This fish fought deep and hard and I struggled to keep it clear of the rocks and prevent it from reaching the next pool.  Then the three pound brown finally broke surface and displayed its superb markings – what a beauty. 

Beautiful markings on the brown trout.

The next pool was even deeper than the last and there had to be a good fish or two in there.  I squeezed on a lead shot near my point fly to get the nymphs down fast and deep in the short run.  Nothing hit my nymphs near to the main current line this time, but then I aimed at the eye on the far side to the right of the incoming rapid.  The take was immediate and the strong fish headed upstream to the next pool, leaping through the rapid in a series of spectacular jumps.  I saw that it was another glistening silver rainbow…..boy I could never get tired of this!   

Sometimes backcountry trout can be easily spooked, but often the absence of other anglers and their need to survive in this environment makes them very willing to take a well presented fly.  Backcountry trout are hungry and will quickly move several feet across a pool or run to intersect your nymph.  So you generally only need three to five good drifts to know whether or not there are feeding fish present and quite often the take is on the first cast, so be ready.  Browns often sit at the end of the pools and sometimes rainbows follow the nymph downstream, so expect some takes near your feet.  Maximize your chances by approaching the water from behind boulders or shrubs (where you can) because the water is often extremely clear.  Spotting opportunities are best from the top of larger boulders or slightly up the gorge side, but be careful you don’t slip and are not seen by the fish.

After several hook-ups of quality fish, I wondered where all the smaller fish were and I stopped briefly to admire the ruggedness of the terrain in this beautiful place.  For me, being out in the wilderness is a real attraction of backcountry angling and an integral part of the experience.  There were several side streams cutting through the steep valley sides and some small waterfalls flowing down from the high cliffs above.  The only other footprints were those of the back and white wild goats who would watch inquisitively from the sides of the gorge.  With no one else around we were truly in one of New Zealand’s wilderness locations.

There is something very special about fishing a river knowing that someone else may not have fished there for weeks or even months.  As we approached the next pool with this in mind, two decent sized fish were spotted cruising the tail of the pool.   Out came the dry fly gear with a size 12 stimulator dry fly and a prince nymph as dropper.  My cast was a good one which landed delicately two metres ahead of one of the fish.  The cruising trout immediately approached the dry and made a swirling take near the surface.  Unfortunately there was no hook-up this time as the fish hadn’t properly connected with the fly…..but the take was a pretty exciting moment anyway! and we moved on to more water ahead.  

We had been trying to plan for a sunny day to assist fish spotting and generate some surface fly activity, but we had to contend with an overcast day with some misty rain around.   However, the disappointing weather was quickly forgotten as the next deep pool offered up another dry fly opportunity.  A dark shadow was spotted in mid water on the left hand side and my heart raced.  More floatant was applied to the stimulator dry and I carefully positioned myself well behind and to the left of the target area.    I aimed not to line the fish and to place the fly a metre upstream of the cruising trout.  As I let go of the cast I realised that it wasn’t my best, with the fly landing nearer to the centre of the pool than planned.  Kicking myself...... I thought the opportunity was lost, but then the fish turned towards the fly, moved in and sipped it confidently off the surface.  Trying to count 1, 2, 3 before I struck was very difficult, but I just managed it and then bang I was connected…….pure joy!  The fish made three good runs and the size of the pool gave me some clear water to control it.  A few minutes later a beautiful four pound Jack was gently released.  I never take any fish from backcountry rivers as I would not want to disturb this unspoilt ecosystem.  There is excitement enough in the fishing itself and great pleasure in watching the trout swim off - which also makes them available for next time! 

Hooked up to another rainbow.

Backcountry fishing is more relaxing than more popular locations as you will have a large stretch of water to yourself.  So you can carefully select the best pools and there will be no pressure to move on from other anglers fishing up behind you.  I fish for enjoyment and a key ingredient to this is being in a stress free, non-competitive and beautiful environment.

The gorge ahead looked steep and intimidating, but we had been told it contained some awesome deep water pools so we moved quickly half a kilometre up river.  In this section the soft papa rock had been sculptured by the current into beautiful curves and each pool looked so inviting that I couldn’t wait to cast.   In one pool the rock was carved into a giant crescent at the bottom and I thought there had to be a fish down in that “purpose built” lie.  You could mistakenly believe there were no fish in the crystal clear pools, but they often hide right at the bottom amongst the grooves and shapes within the papa rock.  On my very first cast through the deepest water, the indicator plunged down with a take that was so savage it made me strike too hard and I nearly dropped my rod!  Again the hook up was solid and I was into another backcountry fighting machine……what a blast!

Then we had a remarkable glimpse into backcountry nature…...a huge eel, over 5 feet long was chasing the fish I was playing!!  The stakes had increased and I was determined not to lose my rainbow to the eel.  Applying as much pressure as I dared, I gradually pulled the fish upstream out of the eel’s grasp – and what a sense of relief when the good sized rainbow was landed!  Whilst unhooking the fish I noticed there was a bite out of its tail, which must have been from the eel.  As I returned the silver rainbow, I couldn’t help thinking that if the eel continued to inhabit this pool, the trout’s days were numbered.

A graceful eel, the competition!

After this incident we saw two more large eels.  They are such graceful swimmers and have big heads and savage teeth.  One of them was attracted by another fish I was playing and I was able to entice another to the waterside by gently splashing the surface.  The huge eels probably explained the general absence of smaller fish!

A six weight rod is the ideal weapon on this type of water, allowing delicate casts with sufficient rod strength.  A heavier approach is likely to spook some of the fish and with anything lighter you will not be able to control these fighting machines.  A clear or olive green floating line helps to achieve a careful presentation and a tapered leader assists with smooth delivery of the flies. Fluorocarbon leaders increase your chances of deception and I can assure you that at least 6lb is necessary to hold onto the fighting fish in the strong current.  A white indicator is useful for stealthy backcountry fishing because it blends better with the water and the foam line.  An indicator that slides up and down your leader is also very useful when you are moving through a variety of water, as it can be easily adjusted to present your flies at a consistent depth in each pool.  Gold or brass bead flies, preferably tungsten, work really well as they quickly get the trout’s attention in the clear water.  Successful nymphs on the day were a quasimodo flashback pheasant tail, a prince nymph and a deadly jet black hare and copper with claret tails.  The dry fly used was a large green stimulator.  Choosing the correct size of fly can also make a real difference.  The nymphs under the rocks are small, which can suggest using a size 16 or even 18.  But usually a size 14 or 12 often proves very successful as the trout are drawn to these more sizeable offerings.  

Time was moving on and I was intent on catching just one more fish.  So we moved even further through the gorge, which became more confined.  To make progress upstream some careful wading and clinging to the steep rock sides was required.  All the time we scanned ahead for more deep sumptuous pools - which are the high probability water.  Huge boulders were strewn along the riverside in this area, with some of them containing layers of crushed paua shells – wow! they must have been pieces of seabed thrown into the gorge by a huge volcano.
  
The effort proved well worth it as the next pool was magical.  A small waterfall cascaded through the entrance over some central rocks, breaking the pool nicely into two runs.  My first cast to the nearest seam landed a few feet short in some almost static water.  I was about to re-cast but there was no need; a good fish had already taken me by surprise by gulping the fly and was moving off.  This was a lively two pounder which jumped high twice and tried to take me around a rock before I had him under control.

Regaining my composure I looked at the second run along the far side of the pool and hoped that it had not been disturbed by the action closer in.  My cast just off the foam line was accurate and I held my breath…one, two, three seconds and wham…what a take!  This was a strong fish and it was off downstream, very fast, with me giving some line and scrambling over rocks to follow it.  The fluorocarbon almost sang with the pressure and I prayed that my knots would hold.  This pool closed to a narrow exit point between two large boulders where the restricted access increased the speed of the current significantly.  I knew that if the fish reached this position it was likely to be a “point of no return” and break-off.  The silver beast then used the current to its advantage and I was pulled downstream and towards this horrible prospect.  At this stage I was certainly losing the fight, but then I spotted a patch of slack water.  Battling against the fish and the current I jumped up onto a rock and applied as much side pressure as possible to bring the fish into this slack water.  The rainbow then tried to go around a log! but after that trick was finally brought to the net.  What a fight from another fine backcountry rainbow! 

I ended up with over a dozen trout that day, with most of them around the 3.5lb mark.  Fish up to 6lb are also quite possible, so you have to be ready for one of those monsters at any time.  The lack of sun had not detracted from the quality of the fishing – in fact the overcast conditions may have helped.  On the way back I noticed a giant red ant type insect, 4cms long, hopping along the stones by the river.  It looked like a meal on legs for a trout and that was possibly the sort of insect that my stimulator dry fly has represented.

If you can do some backcountry fishing in New Zealand you will find the extra effort definitely worthwhile – either in terms of fish caught, wilderness experience or both.  Given the soft nature of our rock, gorges are often encountered but these can be carefully navigated through or around by bushbashing up the valley side.  In New Zealand we are truly spoilt with so many excellent backcountry fishing rivers and in some areas it is not necessary to go too far off the beaten track to lose the crowds.